bluenova@together.net writes:
I've  been particularly interested in your discussions of Olivem (which I 
adore)  and I don't remember reading this little piece of advice before. 
I've been  experimenting with Olivem over the past year and you have 
helped me with  products I have purchased from your site.
What would the reason(s) be  for adding the water soluble additives only 
at cool down? I've been using  several herbal extracts (from the 
Herbarie) that I've been adding them  earlier, but I've also been using 
HEC (per your recommendation) in the  water phase too. Very curious to 
hear your thoughts!
Most  kindly,
---Susan Snowden<<
 
 
Hi Susan,
I'm glad to hear you like Olivem 1000!  It's one of the nicest of the  new 
self-emulsifiers.  The problem with adding SOME ingredients to the  water phase 
is that they can interfere with how the emulsion forms.  If the  emulsion 
doesn't form properly, it will not be stable.  I should have  specified which 
ingredients can be problematic when added to the water phase  because some are 
fine and some NEED to added to the water phase prior to forming  the emulsion.  
 
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) and almost all of the gums and starches should  
be added to the water portion and allowed to hydrate.  The Herbarie HEC as  
you probably know should be added/dispersed into room temperature water  and 
when heated will hydrate and swell.  Most gums (ie. GuarSilk,  XanThix, 
MaizeThix) prefer addition to room temperature water and hydration at  room temperature 
- then once hydrated can be heated.  But at any rate,  gums/starches don't 
typically have any adverse effect on emulsifiers.  The  emulsifiers that form 
the lamellar gel structure actually form more stable  emulsions when natural or 
synthetic polymers such as gums are utilized.   Make certain the gums utilized 
will be compatible with the emulsifier choice  (anionic/cationic).  
 
Some extracts and other additives such as hydrolyzed proteins can  interfere 
with how the emulsion forms and destabilize the emulsion.  It  will depend on 
the particular extract or additive and will also depend on the  particular 
self-emulsifier.  For example, Olivem 1000 definitely does not  like hydrolyzed 
proteins in the water phase.  But some extracts may not be  a problem at all.
 
Some of the ingredients that may create problems when added to the water  
phase are:
-hydrolyzed proteins
-preservatives
-some extracts
-cationics 
-anionics
 
Very often these same ingredients can be added to the emulsion during the  
cooldown phase without problems.  
 
When formulating, particularly when forming emulsions, "order of addition"  
makes a difference in outcome.
 
I hope this helps!
Angie
The Herbarie
_www.theherbarie.com_ (http://www.theherbarie.com) 
 
 
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